A Kimono Asakusa

Appeared under the Heian era (794 - 1185), the Kimono was originally the adage of the Japanese aristocracy. Over the centuries, he popularized more and more in particular under the Edo era (1600-1868), especially thanks to the Geisha and the Kabuki actors. The word literally means “something to wear”. Nowadays the traditional kimono is mainly worn during ceremonies. But we have also seen it evolve and democratize to become an essential play in the female wardrobe.

Today I offer you a tutorial without boss, to make a modern kimono while using the traditional traced techniques of it. I decided to make it in a light cotton in order to be able to wear it as "jacket" during the summer period, but also as a surgery in cooler periods.

Supplies :

• 180 cm x 145 cm of Flower print cotton
• 150 cm x 140 cm of White cotton poplin
• Of bias blue Duck
• A sewing machine
• A box ofpins
• A coil of son matching
• A coil of son white
• A rule / square
• A Craie tailor
• A Measuremer meter

Step 1: Draw and cut the pieces:

1- Before you start you will have to take some measures. Calculate the length of your kimono by measuring from your shoulder to the desired length (counting that we will add 20 cm with the trailer). My model measuring 1.67 m the measure I chose is 75cm. For the width this corresponds to the length of the shoulder, 12 cm, plus 15 cm. Before tracing check that your shoulder measures 12 cm well, if not simply add 15 cm to your measurement.

(This kimono is unisex, simply make it a male version to replace 12 cm by 14 cm)

2- In a kimono the back and the front are one and the same room, it will therefore be necessary to multiply by two the length when tracing it. Draw on your printed cotton folded in half a large rectangle of 54 cm by 150 cm (1).

3- Mark on your rectangle, in a discreet way, where your shoulder line (2).

4- In terms of your shoulder line, on the middle in front, make a brand at 16 cm as well as on the back line, trace a circle arc between these two points (3). After tracing it, draw a parallel to the middle line, it corresponds to the edge of your collar (4).

5- On the other side marked on both sides of your shoulder line a notch 20 cm from it, this will serve as a landmark to place your sleeves later (1). For your sleeves, draw a rectangle of 40 cm by 15 cm (2). Cut these pieces (body and sleeves) 2 times, adding 1 cm all around that will serve as seam value (3).

6- For the hem, trace in your white poplin a rectangle of 100 cm by 20 cm, to obtain this measurement add the measurement of your front more your back and add 8 cm (4). Cut this piece 4 times, leaving 1 cm of seam all around.

7- For the wrists, draw a rectangle of 40 cm by 10 cm (1). For the collar take the measurement of your collar on the body of your kimono. Then draw an 8 cm rectangle by the measure you have just noted (2). Cut the cuffs and the collar 4 times, leaving 1 cm of sewing value all around (3 & 4). If we cut these double pieces instead of folding them it is to give more hold to the kimono.

8- Cut 4 biases, 1 of the total length of your collar, 2 of the length of your wrists, 40 cm and 1 of the total width of your kimono or 200 cm.

At the end of this stage you should end up with 12 pieces of fabrics and 4 biases.

Step 2: Assembly: 

9- Start by assembling the wrists on one of the long sides (1). Then iron the seams flat (2). For the collar first assemble the small sides against the place (3). Iron the open seams. Then repeat the same operation on the long sides by ironing the stitching flat (4).

10- On your sleeves sew your biases folded in two to 0.7cm from the edge (this measurement corresponds to the width of your pressing foot).

11- On your cuffs fold one of the edges inwards for 1 cm (1). Assemble the other side with your handle placed place (2). Iron this seam inwards in the inside of the wrist (3). Then place the side you folded against the seam and make a stitching inside the first side place (4). Repeat the same operation on the second round.

12- Assemble the sleeves with the body on the place, using your notches as a lair as for the placement of the sleeve (1). Then iron the seams at the inside of the sleeve.

13- Assemble the back in the background and iron the open seam (2). Then assemble, by the same seam, the back and the front, as well as the sleeve, place against the place (3).

14- To place the collar started by installing the folded bias in two to 0.7 cm from the edge. Fold one of the two sides of your collar on 1 cm and pass it (1). Then fix the other side to your collar with a seam at 1 cm, iron this seam inwards (2). Then pin the other side against the first seam and fix it with a stitching passing on the first seam (3).

15- For the installation of the hem simply repeat the same steps as for the collar (step 14). But it will be necessary before fixing it to the kimono close the seams on the side by stopping 1.5 cm before the fold that you will have made on one of the sides (4).

As a bonus and as this is now compulsory in the streets, I made a small mask matching the kimono using the tutorial that we offered you a few months ago. I just used biases to create cords instead of the elastics.

And now I present to you some photos of this kimono worn, and photograph in the rose garden of the island of Puteaux.

Thank you for following this tutorial without boss and I invite you to share your creations on social networks with the hashtag #lesouponsdesaintpierre and #kimonoasakusa. And of course we also present this kimono on video so that you can realize its movements.